A Rustic Scallion & Chive Panade

The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a pal baked a phenomenal double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a phenomenal winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief listing of the only elements coming collectively into one thing way more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, that means that you may add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a spread of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you’ve got it (and it’s best to!) be sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I exploit a lot of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up method again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here. 

 

I’m going to dive in and reply various questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient listing for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.

What Type of Bread for this Panade?

The quick reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That mentioned, I may also argue that a variety of that is private desire. For those who bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will seemingly end in a properly structured panade with good distinction between a few of the parts. The bread selection is such a giant deal on this recipe, every one will affect your finish consequence immensely. I discovered the arduous method once I used a extra business sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured droop. You need the bread to place up a combat and maintain a little bit of stress. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old do-it-yourself sourdough made with wild rice in it. 

Crust or no Crust?

There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve performed crustless variations earlier than. For those who determine you’re keen on an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. For those who like your panade to have extra construction, maintain your crust. Or go 50/50!

What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?

We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we’ve got round or within the freezer (defrost). I like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however in the event you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a rooster broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.

Can I exploit a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?

You possibly can! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in every of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I choose barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with a minimum of a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.

Can I Make this Forward of Time?

I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which some other fillings that I would be capable to pre-roast. 

Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades

Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what model you like. You possibly can go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.

This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems to be so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve over time. Due to Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!