Within the 1989 surrealist satire Chameleon Road, two Black males bicker after one says that he prefers girls with mild pores and skin and “good hair.” After being criticized for the remark, the person makes a self-deprecating joke: “I’m a sufferer, brotha. I’m a sufferer of 400 years of conditioning. The Man has programmed my conditioning. Even my conditioning has been conditioned.” Almost a decade later, the rap duo Black Star would pattern the dialogue firstly of their music “Brown Pores and skin Girl,” which is framed as a rebuke of this pervasive bias in opposition to darkish pores and skin and kinkier hair, and an ode to an idealized imaginative and prescient of a head-wrap-donning pure lady whose “pores and skin’s the inspiration for cocoa butter.”
Cocoa butter, a well-liked element of hair and wonder merchandise focused at Black girls, is a vital ingredient in The Different Black Woman, a brand new Hulu collection based mostly on the 2021 office-novel-slash-surreal-thriller by Zakiya Dalila Harris. The story follows Nella Rogers (performed by Sinclair Daniel), a 26-year-old assistant at a New York publishing home the place nearly all of her co-workers are white. In the future, the candy, muted chocolate scent of cocoa butter wafts towards Nella’s cubicle; she’s quickly launched to her cool new Black colleague, Hazel (Ashleigh Murray), who’s simply been employed. However Nella’s preliminary pleasure quickly transitions into concern as she realizes that one thing sinister is hiding beneath Hazel’s head wraps. It seems that Hazel is a member of a gaggle of younger, skilled Black girls who all use a magical hair grease—one which helps deaden the stresses of company racism. Hazel, whom the group calls its “Lead Conditioner,” likens it to “CBD for the soul”; her arrival at Wagner Books is a recruiting mission to drive the personality-changing pomade onto Nella, to allow them to add a future e book editor to their ranks.
For greater than a century, Black writers (and, later, filmmakers) have been sublimating the worst chapters of American historical past into horror, science fiction, and different speculative works. These genres afford creators the liberty to brighten, reimagine, and touch upon social ills by manipulating concern of actual phenomena. Within the context of horror, disembodied hair—or the wild hair of an unruly character—can elicit significantly visceral reactions. (There’s a purpose that one particular picture involves thoughts while you consider The Ring.) The fraught historical past of Black hair in america supplies no scarcity of inspiration—not simply the way in which it’s been legally policed, but additionally the mind-numbing ache of a scalp burn attributable to chemical relaxer left in too lengthy, or the complications that include tight braids. Taming Black hair generally is a haunting endeavor, and works akin to The Different Black Woman have used these real-world anxieties as a launchpad for extra fantastical tales.
The Hulu adaptation is considered one of a number of current productions that use components of horror and speculative fiction to dramatize the liabilities of managing Black hair, particularly within the office. In They Cloned Tyrone, a sci-fi thriller movie launched earlier this 12 months, the protagonists uncover an underground lab the place an Afro-sporting white scientist has been conducting behavioral experiments on Black folks. To inure Black girls to the injustice round them, the nefarious entity has been including a mind-controlling substance to the chemical relaxers they use to straighten their hair.
An analogous plot machine seems within the 2020 movie Unhealthy Hair, a horror satire set in 1989 Los Angeles, the place a manufacturing assistant offers in to company stress to ditch her pure Afro-textured hairstyles and get a protracted, silky weave. Together with her palatable new tresses, she lastly will get thought of for the TV internet hosting gig she’s been working towards for years, however her luck adjustments when her weave overpowers her—actually—and units off a bloodthirsty rampage. Or take the 2018 horror-comedy quick Hair Wolf, a contemporary vampire story set in a Black hair salon. Directed by Mariama Diallo (who additionally directed two episodes of The Different Black Woman), the movie follows a white influencer obsessive about Black cultural signifiers who insists on getting “boxer braids”—and whose leeching presence begins altering the looks of the salon’s stylists.
Although these style works range in tone and skillfulness, they’re all rooted in the identical historic actuality: For hundreds of years, Black hair has been surveilled, stigmatized, and even banned from public view by legal guidelines akin to Louisiana’s 18th-century tignon legislation, which mandated that Creole girls of coloration cowl their hair with a shawl “as a visual signal of belonging to the slave class, whether or not they have been enslaved or not.” After the Civil Rights Act of 1964 banned employment discrimination based mostly on race, Black staff started preventing for his or her proper to put on their pure hair with out employer retaliation.
A few of these struggles proceed as we speak: Due to their hairstyles, Black college students have been dismissed from faculty actions or barred from strolling in commencement ceremonies with their classmates; Black job candidates have had employment presents rescinded. On the similar time, some social progress has been achieved on the statehouse: Starting with California in 2019, the CROWN Act (which stands for “Making a Respectful and Open World for Pure Hair”) and related payments have been handed in 23 states, making this type of discrimination unlawful. Part I of the California legislation begins with an acknowledgment that the “historical past of our nation is riddled with legal guidelines and societal norms that equated ‘blackness,’ and the related bodily traits, for instance, darkish pores and skin, kinky and curly hair to a badge of inferiority, typically topic to separate and unequal therapy.”
Hulu’s The Different Black Woman instantly introduces hair as a locus of its characters’ non-public unease (whereas within the novel, the anesthetizing hair serum isn’t launched till almost two-thirds of the way in which via). In its opening scene, a meek-looking Black lady tries to flee an unseen menace on the Wagner Books workplace in 1988. As she awaits the elevator in a panic, she reaches via her full, principally straight hair to scratch her scalp. By the point she makes it onto the subway, she’s rubbed her pores and skin uncooked, and her fingers emerge from her hair lined in blood. That is the work atmosphere that Nella Rogers, together with her Afro and her anxiousness, will enter 35 years later—the looking floor the place Hazel will try to attract Nella into her cocoa-butter coup.
Hazel, whom the white higher-ups at Wagner appear to like as quickly as they meet her, doesn’t look fairly just like the stereotypical “workplace pet” Black lady of TV reveals previous. Hazel sports activities fake dreadlocks, not straight hair of any sort. They’re typically piled excessive atop her head, a wrap holding them in place. Her styling is decidedly trendy, vaguely Afrocentric; she tasks the form of effortlessly stylish authenticity that Nella, who retains her hair in a easy Afro, longs for.
The Different Black Woman is at its greatest when it treats these variations between Nella and Hazel with humor. Nella’s pal, Malaika (Brittany Adebumola), as an example, is a Rihanna-loving fashion chameleon who judges Nella’s hair and apparel with as a lot vigor as she questions the eerie plot unfolding at Wagner. Whereas Malaika chaperones Nella at a “hair social gathering” in Hazel’s Harlem brownstone, she tries to determine what’s within the product that Hazel desires to make use of to braid Nella’s hair. After Hazel declines to reply, Malaika chastises her gullible pal for going together with the plan. “Woman, I taught you higher than that,” Malaika says to Nella. “You might be on a hair-care journey, and also you’re gonna throw it out the window for some unknown substances?”
These comedian moments recall the witty asides that peppered the present’s influences, most notably Get Out and Scandal. They’re additionally significantly participating as a result of the collection is fairly mild on thriller components—and since they don’t really feel slowed down by clarification. These scenes recommend that the present trusts its viewers to already know that pure hair care often actually is a journey. They jogged my memory of a bit within the shape-shifting sketch-comedy collection Random Acts of Flyness, whose first season featured an episode by which a white choose sentences an anthropomorphic textured wig for offenses together with “normal badness,” “a bent to separate ends,” and “prison injury to a wonderfully practical plastic comb.” Spoofs like that sketch are particularly refreshing as a result of they understand how exhausting such conversations about “good hair” will be. The sketch addresses a painful, typically harmful type of discrimination, however the absurdity of its visuals and the boldness of its writing preserve it feeling creative.
The Different Black Woman doesn’t fairly succeed at threading its disparate kinds into one cohesive collection. However the finish of the season suggests {that a} second chapter may land with a little bit extra finesse. Within the present’s ultimate scenes, when Nella appears to have acquiesced to the cocoa-butter conspiracy, we see her at Wagner rocking a protracted, silky black wig. Her co-workers are in awe of the newly minted editor’s empowered disposition, however behind the closed door of her fancy solo workplace, Nella smirks slyly. She’s in on the key now, and he or she’s going to have some enjoyable. What she’ll do as an undercover Conditioner is anyone’s guess.
